Iranikulam Sree Mahadeva Temple, Mala, Thrissur Dist., Kerala

"All that is gold does not glitter,
 Not all those who wander are lost" 

- J.R.R.Tolkein

Iranikulam Sree Mahadeva Temple - Thekkedathu (Southern) Temple

Beyond name, beyond fame, beyond all blames stands few temples in a state of simple, serene splendor. Our caravan is on its way to one such quintessentially sedate temple - a temple which has witnessed all shades of time - the prosperity, the plunder, the boon, the curse - and yet has remained beyond all those manifestations - Iranikulam Sree Mahadeva Temple.

From Kodungallur the meandering road along the picturesque surroundings to Iranikulam via Poopathi is sometimes deceiving even to experienced drivers.

"It is hardly 15 km from Kodungallur and a short cut to Nedumbassery Airport. But the chances of driving off course are more in this confusing assortment of roads - especially if it is during odd hours of the day. Once, a cab driver was trapped for a whole night not being able to figure out the main road!" - quips Divs

En route to Iranikulam from Kodungallur

But not all those who wander are lost! - Ram our guide in journeys like these made sure we are in the right direction to God. After all it is these twists and turns of the journeys which leave a long lasting imprint in us.

If you are still not sure if there is gold that does not glitter here is one for you! - We are in front of one of the ancient temples of Kerala and the one having biggest two-storied circular sanctum ('Vattasreekovil'). The majesty of this temple can be found in the big sacrificial stone ('Balikallu'), the wooden carvings and the intricate dragon faced animal carvings around the sanctum. 

Iranikulam is one of the 64 villages donated to the Brahmins by Parasurama. There are in fact two temples in the same compound here. The main deity, 'Sadasivalingam', of 'Thekkedathu' (Southern) temple is believed to be originally consecrated by Lord Parasurama making it one of the 108 Siva temples of ancient Kerala. The 'Vadakkedathu' (Nothern) temple has the 'Panchaloha' idols of Siva, Parvathi and Subramanian on a single platform. It is considered to be built later by local chieftains. The Lord here is in a state of happiness blessing everyone who comes to him.

Iranikulam Sree Mahadeva Temple - Vadakkedathu  (Eastern) Temple

It is believed that centuries back Iranikulam was a thriving village. The Chalakudy river was flowing close to this village making it one of the chief business route to Muziris (Kodungallur). Naturally this area would have been inhabited by the local chieftains of that time. Geographical changes (great flood of 1341?) altered the course of Chalakudy river and soon the significance of this area diminished. The internal fights between the local chieftains, the invasions by the Mysore kingdom and possibly by the surrounding kingdoms expedited the downfall.

The original glory of this temple soon got confined in few stone inscriptions and some local myths and legends. It was then in the recent past a palm leaf manuscript was found in the residence known as ‘Vadakke Pushpakam’ - a traditional ‘Brahmani' song performer of the village. Sri.P.K.Raghavan Nair translated the contents of the manuscript into a book and published it in 2010.

The facts given in the manuscript are astonishing - Written in A.D. 1464 it gives a detailed list of the customs, rituals, rites and the properties of the temple at that time. Starting with stating about the idols of 'Vadakkedathu' (Nothern) temple it lists the presence of two 'Panchaloha' idols of 'Dwarapalakas' (they are missing now), idols of Parvathi in the temple ponds and village boundaries, gold and silver ornaments of the deities, a gold pot, silver and copper wares and several other temple utensils. It also gives the list of the land property of the temple, the role of priests and various temple authorities. The book also explains about the legends associated with the temple and about the five wonders ('Panchaascharyam') which was present in this temple (none of the wonders are found now).

Stone carvings at Iranikulam

"There is no 'dhara' here. Brahmin youths once playing on the banks of the river made a Siva linga out of sand and performed pooja. The Siva linga became immobile. It is believed the  'Sadasivalingam' of 'Thekkedathu' (Southern) temple is that one. May be Parasurama would have consecrated here before or after this legend." - explains Arun who is a native of this village.

Kulathil-Kulam at Iranikulam - one of the Panchasharyam

"Similarly there are two Nandi idols here. One inside and other outside. There is 'Nivedyam' to the Nandi inside. Among the several wonders one is that the Nandi walks in this area during night. Few of the other wonders are like jasmine flower blooming in jasmine itself, turmeric sprouting on its leaf, a pond in a pond and a stone boat found on a hill. None of these are found now. There are people in this village who have seen some of these like the stone boat turned upside down on a small hill close by. But that entire hill was demolished and taken away few years back. The place where Karrottu Bhagavathi is present had a big peepal tree. It is believed Lord Siva along with Parvathi and Subramanya appeared there after which they were consecrated in the 'Vadakkedathu' (Northern) temple. The Karrottu Bhagavathi idol present there is centuries old, probably the oldest of everything here. The Guruthi of devi is performed there." 

"There were three golden flag masts here. All that is lost long back may be during battles. Work is underway to construct new flag masts now. The 'Dwarapalakas' missing were told to be present in Thrissur Museum and even heard to be on display in an exhibition in a foreign country. I have not seen them however." - says Arun.

Stone carvings at Iranikulam

As like Lord Siva, Parvathi Devi have a great significance here.
"Most people know the Thiruvairanikulam temple near Aluva where Parvathi devi is worshipped for 12 days in an year. People crowd there especially for marriage offerings. It is however believed it is from Iranikulam Lord Siva and Parvathi went to Thiruvairanikulam. So if you pray here any time of the year it has the same effect as your prayers in those 12 days at Thiruvairanikulam. Public does not know these facts and go after the hype!. In fact the tantri of Vaikkom Siva temple was designated from here. The Tantram of Iranikulam temple is with Tamarasseri Meykkat and the festival is in the month of Dhanu." - concludes Arun.

There were several Namboothiri families (illams) in this village. Most of them have vanished now. The village however still have a vintage feel all around it. The old school, the big pond, the paddy fields and humble people assure us that the innate quality of this culturally rich village is still in its air. We started our journey back reciting the remaining couplet of Tolkeinian poem -

"The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost."

References :

 
1. Book on the Palm Leaf Manscript by Sri.P.K.Raghavan Nair
2.  www.iranikulamtemple.com