Velorvattam Mahadeva Temple, Cherthala, Alapuzha Dist., Kerala

“ aham nirvikalpo niarakara rupo /  vibhur vyapya sarvatra sarvendriyaanaam

   sada me samatvam na muktir na bandhah / chidananda rupa Sivoham Sivoham ”

We are at the coastal town of Cherthala along the NH-66, about 40 km south of Kochi. According to one legend, the Hindu saint Vilwamangala Swamigal, while traveling through this place found an idol of Devi immersed with the head in muddy pond which he consecrated as Karthiyayani Devi and the place came to be known as Cher (Muddy water) Thalai (Head). This place is known to many as the birth place of Irayimman Thambi, the music connoisseur of Travancore court during the time of Swathithirunal and as the place of great Dalit woman, Nangeli who fought against social injustice.

On the way to Cherthala town from the NH is the Velorvattam Mahadeva Temple, one of the 108 Sivalayas of Pracheena Kerala. We reached there in the morning hours after our prayers at Pattanakkad. As we arrived at the location, we see a large idol of Lord Siva and a name board which helped us confirm our destination. Outside area of the temple is crowded with vehicles parked everywhere. In the temple compound, there are several concrete structures ill-suited to the overall ambience, like the umbrella cover of the deepastambas.

To the left of the entrance is the sub-shrine of Nagas with tree canopy. There are two sanctums in this temple each with separate entrance, balikallu and dwajasthambam. The entrances to inner prakara are small and narrow but are in proportion to the overall structure of the temple. In the inner prakara, the two sanctums are adjacent to each other and both have Lord Siva consecrated in them. One on the north is Vadakkanappan and on the south is Thekkanappan. Thekkanappan, with square sanctum and small deity, is in Kirathamoorthi sankalpa and is considered swayambhu. This reminds us on its similarity to the structure of the Velappaya Mahadeva Temple in Thrissur district. At Velorvattam the deities are facing east while at Velappaya they are facing West. One legend says (Reference : 108 Sivakshetrangal by Sri.Kunjikuttan Illayath) when Azhvanchery Thamprakkal were not able to pray at Vaikkom temple, Lord appeared to them as Swayambhoo in their sacrificial fire which is the current form of Thekkanappan. Vadakkanappan, with Mahadeva sankalpa, is in a circular sanctum (vattasreekovil). Both the sanctums, the entrance are all brass covered entirely. The namaskara mandapa, Nandi idols are small but suited to the overall ambience.

As per Sri.Illayath, this temple was owned by Elangallur Swarupam. Elangallur Swarupam, also known as Edapally Tampuraans were medieval era feudal landlords, who handled areas around Cherthala, Haripad, Vazhakulam etc. They were one of the two Brahmin royalties in Kerala. It is believed these lands were provided to them by the late Chera Dynasty rulers. A priest of Trikakkara Temple is considered as the founder of Elangallur Swarupam. When Edapally Elangallur Swaroopam lost their independent status, they handed over the temple to Azhvanchery Thamprakkal. Currently this temple is handled by Uraayma Devaswam.

Probably, the only antique feel we observed inside is the granite paved well in between the two sanctums. There are Sastha, Ganapathi and Vishnu as upadevas in the inner prakara and Nagas, Yakshi, Rakshas, Arukola in the outer-prakara of the temple. A large pond on the south of the temple is also a notable feature here. The festival in the temple is in the Malayalam month of Kumbham (Feb-Mar). Tantram is with Monaad Mana. There are five poojas and three seevelis in the temple. It is believed that performing vazhivadu in this temple is good for sarvadoshaparihara.

The temple is about to get into Astamangalya Prasnam from the next day of our visit. Plastic disposal issue which we found in Pattanakkad is observed in this temple compound as well. Along with it, we noticed few Naga idols lying in an abandoned state around. Could these be a reason for the Prasna? Whatever it may turn out to be, we felt a greater need to protect our temples in their original form for a larger cause. It is not just to preserve our culture, it is also to preserve our Nature. Om Nama Sivayah!

***

Pattanakkad Mahadeva Temple, Alapuzha Dist., Kerala

Our journey this time is across Ernakulam towards south to the district of Alapuzha. Starting early in the morning from Tripunithura, we crossed Aroor bridge before the summer sun hit the ever hectic National Highway. Our destination is the Mahadeva Temple in a little known village between Thuravoor and Cherthala called Pattanakkad. 

In the 108 Sivalaya strotra the place name is mentioned as "Kodumboor Ashtamikkovil Pattanakkadu Thashtayil". However as per the note in the 108 Sivalakshetrangal by Kunjikuttan Illayath it is referred as Pattinikkadu which probably means at some point in the history the PattInikkadu (Forest of Poverty) became PattAnakkadu (Forest of Town)! 

Whatever it may be, the temple is now situated right along the National Highway to Kanyakumari (NH-66, earlier NH-17).  And looking at the roaring, explosive NH, it might be exactly when this NH came into being it became PattAnakkadu! 

However inside the temple all these things change. The sandy soil around the temple provides us a relaxed feel. The small entrance to the inner prakara takes us into more peaceful ambience. The square shaped sanctum is small in size and a look at the Lord inside evaporates all our fatigue instantly. The namaskara mandapa is in proportion to the sanctum and so is the Nandi idol. There are shades of antiquity, like the old well inside and the old coloured dwarapalakas. However the sanctum and many portions of temple are brass covered 8 years back. Lord Siva is considered Swayambhoo and is in Kiratha Sankalpa facing East. Ganapathi and Subramanya are also consecrated inside.

In the outer prakara there are sub shrines for Yakshiamma, Nagas, Sastha, Rakshas, Devi with an old feel and a large pond in the backside. There is no temple wall around here other than the one at the east. The deepasthambam in the front and back looks centuries old. We could not get any historical details or legends on this temple. However, as per Illayath, this temple was managed by the Karthas (Kaimals), local landlords of the past. However details of their family is not available. Now it is with Travancore Devaswam Board. Tantram is with Puthumala Illam. Festival is celebrated during Sivarathri.

With all these beautiful aspects of this temple, the plastic waste strewn in the inside and outside of the temple is painful to absorb. The countless plastic bottles thrown around after lighting oil lamps to the Lord is not something the Lord himself could digest! This is surely not what a temple should be for. When lighting the oil lamps to the Lord for our wellness, we should also be concerned about the wellness of the temple and the Lord of this Nature as well, isn't it? We started our journey ahead not before praying to the Lord for a placid life and plastic-less world!