Thirunettoor Mahadevar Temple, Nettoor, Maradu, Ernakulam Dist., Kerala

It is a cloudy morning. We are driving through the thick traffic at Kundanoor Junction along the Salem-Kanyakumari Highway. Soon crossing the bridge over the creek close to Le Meridien Cochin Resort, we saw that sign for the destination of the day - Thirunettoor Mahadevar Temple.

Following the directions, we took the service road under the highway. It is just that we have escaped the highway traffic. But, the narrow road with array of shops on either side was no better.

“The road to Lord is never easy. Yet, with perseverance there is triumph round the corner.”

And at last we reached that corner. In a pleasing surrounding rich in sandy soil appearing like holy ash and enriched by a vast pond stands the graceful Thirunettoor Mahadevar Temple. Away from the competing highway, we felt an infinite peace in this humble atmosphere.

“The pond was not this big.” – said Divs who has visited the temple before.

“Yes” – corroborates Sivadasan, a native of the village. “An year back it was just a small one. It was widened and set up recently with a fund from the Central Government.”

In these denaturing times, where people plunder the poor ponds, to see one here being resurrected is a great joy. It is not a small thing at all. In fact, it is a great thing!

Close to the main entrance of the compound is the idol of Ganesha facing towards east beneath a peepal tree.  The main temple is in its true elements. There are no harrowing constructions in the name of renovation. A renovation was done here in 1985 by the Siva Kshetra Seva Samithi. However it has not corrupted the essence of this temple. The outer complex has Sastha , Yogeeswaran and Nagas. At the entrance to the inner complex is the big Balikallu stating the grandeur of this temple. The sanctum is in the form of Vattasreekovil (round in shape) and the main deity of Lord Siva is facing towards the east looking at the Jalasaya (the pond). At the entrance to the sanctum Vattezhuthu is present on a stone. "It is believed to be of the 10th century." - states Girish, a native keen on preserving the history of this temple. The Nandi idol is small and seemingly very old. The Namaskara Mandapam has one pillar at the south-east covered in red cloth. It is believed to have the presence of Yakshi.

Thirunettoor Mahadevar Temple

Parameswaran, another native explained to us the history of this village and temple.
 
“Thirunettoor temple is one of the 108 Siva temples which is believed to be consecrated by Sage Parasurama. This village, Nettur is basically located in an island. In fact around 40 years back there were no bridges to reach this place. The only means to reach here was by boat. There was boat service from Kundanoor to Nettoor. This area was inhabited mainly by Namboothiri families with more than 100 illams. These surroundings were rich in clay and there were plenty of paddy fields here. A native paddy variety known as Pokkali used to be cultivated here. With the passage of time, the Namboothiri families disintegrated.”

Thirunettoor Mahadevar Temple – view from South

“If you see now, there are several communities here and entire surroundings are heavily populated. Each community has their own temples because of which this temple relatively has subdued into a public temple. The local people should come forward and be more earnest to the cause of this temple. Here is the Lord of this village who has blessed us since centuries.”

To the North of the main shrine is the temple of Lord Maha Vishnu known as Vadaa Thevar. Thirunettoor thus has the presence of both Lord Siva and Vishnu making it more auspicious. This temple of Maha Vishnu is partially renovated. The main sanctum however remains as it was.

Lord Vishnu Temple close to Mahadevar Temple

“Vilwamangala Swamigal is believed to have visited this place. He observed that the Namboothiri families have Pitrasapam (curse of their ancestors) and suggested to consecrate Lord Vishnu as well which is how this temple was built. Now this place is visited by several people to pay tributes to their ancestors (Bali Tarpanam).” – says Parameswaran.

There is a temple of Lord Krishna as well in between the shrines of Siva and Vishnu.  The festival is in the Malayalam month of Dhanu.  The temple is under the Cochin Devaswom Board. The Thantram is of Puliyanoor Mana.

Boat Jetty at Nettoor

After the prayers at the temple, we went around to see the village. There is a railway station in Nettoor and a rail line passes by the west side of the temple. Either side of the village road is densely inhabited. At one place we saw people crowding around a public tap to collect drinking water. Though surrounded by water there seems to have scarcity of drinking water in this village. Is it still the curse of ancestors? The coastal road across the level cross takes us to a boat jetty. There is boat service available to Thevara. The distant buildings of the Ernakulam town can be seen from the jetty. But this village still remains modest – probably out of necessity - for the creek between the city and this village runs very deep for most of the people here.

References : From our talks with the local people of Nettoor village (some names changed).