Ernakulathappan Siva Temple, Ernakulam Dist., Kerala

View of Ernakulam Cityscape

Entangled in umpteen agonies Ernakulam town has not breathed easy since its canvas transformed into a cityscape.  There was however a time when this town was not cluttered or polluted as it is now.  

Let us unwind its landscape to some 100 years back - There are barely any buildings but a few tile roofed homes, no pot-hole roads but neatly paved mud lanes, the greenery is rich and thick, there is hardly any sewage, mosquitoes are ‘endangered species’, Petroleum is unheard of, the canals are crystal clear reflecting the floating canoes and the breeze from the sea is soothing with a mild whiff of crystal salt. Amidst all stands Lord Siva of Ernakulathappan Temple watching the serene horizon of the Arabian Sea.

To imagine this itself is so meditative - To experience it would have been divine. But time has grown up into greedy restless creature. Ernakulam or more commonly referred as Kochi is now the financial, commercial and IT hub of Kerala. From around 22,000 people in 1911, it has swollen into more than 32 lakhs in 2011. And those who stay in this city very well know that it is now the breeding ground of all brands of mosquitoes.

Considering these ‘subtle’ aspects of this bustling city we took an odd time of the day to visit the temple. Early morning 4.30 is odd for almost all but Ernakulathappan. We reached the temple while the abhishekam was in progress. With very few people around, before the day materialises, to have darshan of the Lord turned out to be the most auspicious moment we ever had in the city of Ernakulam - Yes, our attempt to avoid the city chaos and feel the pre-urbanised form has accomplished.

The legend of this temple goes back to the story of Kirata. Arjuna overpowered by Lord Shiva in Kirata form, creates a Shivalinga out of mud and prays to the Lord who blesses him along with Parvathi devi. The legend says, Devalan, a nagarshi, took the Shivalinga made by Arjuna and while wandering with it arrived at the present Ernakulam where it became immovable. There is a sub shrine of Kirathamoorthy where the the idol got fixed to the ground. Pleased with the prayers of Devalan, Lord Shiva and Parvathy appeared in the form of "Gowri Shankara"  and took the form of Swayambhoo Shivalinga which is the main deity here. The Lord faces West watching the Arabian Sea. A sub shrine of Lord Ganesha is present inside the Chuttambalam. Sub shrines of Naga and Sastha are also present here. The rituals of this temple were established by Vilwamangala Swamigal.

Ernakulathappan Siva Temple - view from South-West

It is said the local rulers, Kaimals built the ancient temple. The temple in its present form has a mix of old and new structures. The sanctum in the form of vatta-sreekovil has intricate carvings which are protected with glass. The chuttambalam is preserved in old form while the namaskara mandapam is refurbished with granite. A large pond on the east of temple is also legendary as the name Ernakulam is believed to have originated based on this. The temple festival falls during Jan-Feb of every year.

Ernakulathappan Siva Temple - West Side

The congested constructions surrounding the temple do make it tough to breath easy. Yet, inside the temple, especially before the city wakes up, we truly feel close to God!

References: http://www.ernakulathappan.org