Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple, Thrissur Dist, Kerala

First we thought we were mistaken. How could Bhagavathy temple be part of 108 Siva Temples? But we were not as we found out.

Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple - view from South

It is from the legends of Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple we were introduced to the great epic of Sangam age - Silapathikaram. As we take a bow to the centuries old Bhagavathy idol, we feel the presence of Kannagi of the legend - the chaste power, subtle grace and rigorous resolve in those gracious eyes. To this day, we three feel blessed just for being part of this little town – entangled in its legends, mythologies and history with its roots touching the farthest historical possibilities of South India.

The legend says, the Chera King (Chenguttavan), listening to the story of Kannagi built a temple (Hero stone) at his capital to commemorate her martyrdom, which is the current Kodungallur Temple. It is considered that Ilango Adigal, the younger brother of Chenguttavan wrote Silapathikaram at a place close to Kodungallur town.  

Now, Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple (which is also known as Sree Kurumba Bhagavathy) situated amidst ample banyan and peepal trees in an area spanning ten acres, has become an inevitable part of the life and culture of the entire Kodungallur town.

Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple - View from North

Though the main deity is Badra Kali, Lord Siva is the Kshetra Nathan (Lord) of this temple which is why it is also one amongst the 108 Siva Temples. It is stated that the power of Kali cannot be condensed down in a temple. It is with a lot of Tantric techniques such as Rurujith Vidhanam, the deity (Kodungallur Amma for the natives), is consecrated.  Kodungallur Bhagavathi is the centre of the 64 Badrakali temples. Most of the other Kali temples in Kerala have its power originally taken from Kodungallur Kavu or claim a relationship with Kodungallur Amma.

There are several other legends as well related to the history of this temple. One among them is that this temple was built by Sage Parasurama as one of the four main Devi temples of Kerala (Baalambika at Kanyakumari, Hemambika at Karimala near Palakkad, Lokambika at Kodungallur and Mookambika at Kollur). Later Sri Sankaracharya identified the power of Kali in this region and consecrated the deity. 

There are no written evidences on when the temple was built. In his book on the history of Kodungallur temple Sri. P.G.Rajendran, states – by referring the Simhala History (Srilanka) in a work written in Pali called ‘Mahavamsa’ by Mahanama, the King of Ceylon during the time of Chera King Chenguttavan was Gajabahu. By relating these facts, it can be considered this temple should be built in A.D 2nd Century (around A.D 113 - A.D 125). It is also known that, the Srilankans worship Kannagi as “Pattini Devi”. 

The main deity of Bhagavathy is made of wood (Jackfruit tree). The deity has 8 hands and is facing towards north. Inside the sanctum, there is a secret chamber which always remains closed. It is believed that it contains the Sri Chakra placed by Sankaracharya. 

“Whenever we visit the temple in our childhood, this secret chamber used to raise our curiosity. We had a story that it contains the mortal remains of Kannagi and we were eager to know if it will ever be opened. But it remains closed. However, the mystery of the secret chamber still brings those mythological waves of childhood to us!” – tells Di.

Close to Bhagavathy is the sanctum of Lord Siva facing towards east. There are all structural specifications here as is required for a Siva temple except the Nandi. Also, there are 7 idols of “Sapthmatrakal” facing North. Inside is Ganapthy idol as well which is facing East. Another curious structure of this temple is a chamber called as “Pallimaadam”. This kind of construction is found only in this temple. The real concept of this is not clearly known. It has the floor made of stone which is believed to have a tunnel below it. 

A view of "Pallimaadam" - the top structure

In the outer compound of the temple are the sub deities “Kshetrapalan” and “Vasoorimala”. Kshetrapalan is about 12 feet tall idol and is facing West. It is believed that this deity has the role as the administrator of Bhagavathy.  Again the rituals for this deity also are as mysterious as the other rituals of this temple. Vasoorimala is consecrated in the South-West corner of the compound and is facing North. There is no roof for this deity. One legend considers this deity as powerful Chandika. In another legend, the deity of Vasoorimala is believed to be worshipped from a very long time as the protector from the dreaded infectious disease of smallpox – a disease which is believed to have emerged in humans since 10,000 BC. A similar mode of belief was there in ancient Chinese, African and European cultures as well. The most important ritual “Guruthi” is performed to the deity of Vasoorimala.  Other than all these there is the idol of a goddess named as “Thavittumoorthy” which is placed outside the Siva temple. The concept of this idol is not clearly known.  Among the several versions of attempted history, one considers Vasoorimala as Kannagi and Kshetrapalan as Kovilan.

The main temple opens for daily rituals at 4 am. After Uccha Pooja at around 12 noon, the temple will be closed and then will be opened again at 4pm. Then in the night Athaazha Pooja will be performed around 8 pm followed by Guruthi. Unlike most other temples in Kerala, the priests of this temple are not Namboothiris, but are Adigals. They are believed to be the descendants of Agnihotri (around 300 AD?). The reasoning of why they were given the prime role is not clearly known. However, it is believed to be so for performing the Saktheya Pooja. The right of pooja is entrusted on three families of Adigals - Kunnath Maddam, Maddathil Maddam and Neelathu Maddam.

As like the rituals, the festivals of this temple are also unique and shrouded with mysticism. 

Thalapoli festival is celebrated for 4 days (it was for 7 days several years back) starting from the first day of Malayalam month Makaram (around Jan-15). It is celebrated to offer the harvest of the Makaram season to Bhagavathy. There is no flag posting ceremony as part of this. The beginning of festival is marked by the performance of the traditional dance form Sankha Kali by Chathira Namboothiris.

Bharani is the most famous and important festival of this temple. Several communities except the Brahmins participate in this very unique festival which is not found in any other temple in Kerala. There are several historical aspects related to this festival which are not clearly known or documented. The festival starts officially from the day of Bharani of the Malayalam month Kumbam and continues till the day of Bharani of the Malayalam month Meenam – thus spanning almost a month (28 days). In the final days of the festival several devotees and oracles from faraway places (from South and North of Kerala) reach Kodungallur temple with their offerings to Kodungallur Amma which is usually pepper, turmeric, coconut and hens. Their unique songs with explicit sexuality are sung during these days as an offering to the goddess. 

Oracle at Bharani Festival - Kodungallur

“Wrapped in deep red garments, laden with glittering ornaments, with big strides of heavy anklets, swaying the ceremonial swords, singing the traditional tribal songs as they (the Oracles and devotees from far off and unknown rural belts of Kerala) reach here, the entire town just metamorphoses into a very different sphere. It ceases to be our town. It just gets seized by the devotees of Bhagavathy. The crescendo reaches its peak during the Kaavutheendal ceremony transforming the temple compound to a pseudo battle field” – says Ra

As part of Bharani festival, on Aswathi day, the ritual performed in the noon is called Trichandana Pooja. This is considered as the most powerful and unique ritual of this temple. Known only to the oldest Adigal of the three Adigal families the ritual itself is of around 3 hours and is performed in the closed sanctum sanctorum with respect, penance and strict adherence to the procedures.

Kavu theendal during Bharani Festival - Kodungallur

“One of the features of this temple was the flock of sheep lazing around in the temple compound. There were many of them and no one used to disturb them. Now with the traffic and developments around they have vanished. Luckily, the traditional festival of Thalapoli, Bharani and Kavuteendal are not diluted with these changes. Yet this temple still remains as an unsolved mythical riddle for our curious mind” – says Abhi

Reference: Kodungallur Bhagavathy Ithihyavum, Charithravum (in Malayalam) - P.G Rajendran