It is early morning of a dry February Sunday. The morning rays are yet to punch in. On the desolate NH-544 we are driving with effortless ease as like we can go on forever. All along, in the semi-dark surroundings, we are looking for the directions - directions to our divine destination. Divergence to divinity is not easy to come by. But for us, like a divine intervention, it came in through a gentleman with Thrissur slang.
"Adutha signaleenu, valathoott vazhiyund - athilee vittaa mathi - 3 km kaanullu"
("At the next signal, you can find a road to the right. Go along that road. Should be 3 km from there")
It is timely and godly guidance to our destination of the day - Thrikoor Mahadeva Temple.
The narrow road from Marathakkara signal is not as straight or smooth as we enjoyed all along. Yes - road to God can't be easy! But it was reassuring for sure for we are moving away from the chaos of city lights into the calmness of divine lamps!
Along with the first rays of the morning we reached Thrikoor Mahadeva Temple. It is unique among the 108 Sivalayas for the presence of Swayamboo Lord Siva inside a rock. The Manali River (Manaliyaar) is flowing along the west of the temple. However keeping the trend of 21st century Kerala rivers, Manaliyaar too evaporates in the summer and will reappear with the monsoon rains. A light ascent from the east takes us to the foot of the temple. A vintage-black rock with tile-roof structure to its south, the flag mast, valia-pandal and an old balikallu greets us there. Few of the new constructions do not merge well with the age-old feel of the temple.
"In our journeys, we have started to swallow this unfortunate truth - the use of new gen materials in the modifications of the ancient structures chops down its antique feel and leaves it haplessly ruined. Hope some generation would realize this and resurrect it to its most natural form!" - feels Divs.
The pradakshina route is alongside the rock. Vishwam Marar, the temple percussionist, guides us through the way around the temple. From below we can pray Lord Ganapathi on the rock facing east. Sapthamatrakal are consecrated as Mathrasala which is not very common form of worship. From there we can walk up to the rock top. Vishwam Marar strolled up the slant of the rock in elegant ease. "No one has slipped here" - we follow him trying not be the first one's to slip. The rock top of the temple has a fascinating view of the morning. We are on time to watch the sun rise in the backdrop of flag mast, with the village waking up in the misty surroundings. It is a refreshing view with a pristine feel. The big tree on the west is already busy with chirp of birds - nature is very much alive here!
"Look at how our ancestors have kept everything so close to nature! Do you find anything artificial? This is what we should learn. Leave this eco-system to the nature. Keep it sacred. Just merge in it. You are not even supposed to nudge it." - feels Ram
"This is the place where Lord is believed to have played dice with Agni" - pointing to a crisscross lines Vishwam Marar said - "One myth is when it rained Lord went inside the rock. Another legend is Lord Siva was sanctified by Lord Agni here. It is believed Lord Agni stays with Lord Siva all the time. Even now if it rains Lord is not taken out. Lord Siva ensures Lord Agni is not affected by rain!". In one documentation, we read the Lord here is present as Agni Linga.
There is a rock-pond on the top with water all through the year - even during extreme summer! Also there is a foot mark structure on the rock which is believed as Lord's feet. On the south-west Nagas are present. Sastha, Anthimahakalan, Badrakaali, Bagavathi and Chamundi are present in the east.
Inside of the temple has granite floors and Namaskaramadapa with 16 granite pillars. In the early morning hours it is intensely meditative inside. The divine lamps in the rock chamber with the darshan of Lord will instantly fill one's ajna chakra with divine energy. Lord is believed to be in Rowdra bhava and is facing East. However the darshan of the Lord is from the north. Sivalinga is of about 6 feet tall. Parvathidevi resides with Lord Siva as Vidyaswaroopini. The sreekovil, which is 24 feet long, 18 feet tall, has Dwarapalakas, Vaishnava Salagrama and Lord Ganapathi on the wall which is not visible from outside.
Several Buddhist and Jain rock carvings are said to be found here which indicate their presence in this region in the past age. "This meditative place could not be missed by any saints, irrespective of Buddhist or Jains." Later there were Tamil Brahmins as well here. This cave was completely hidden and unknown for a long time. Legends tells us a person named Kunnappilli Nair found this temple while he was searching for his cow. He informed Karekkat Namboothiri, Perumpadappu Priest and Paliathachan. On finding the presence of divine power, the temple was built under the instruction of Paliathachan. This history is just four centuries old. However it should be noted that the Lord's presence here is much older than we could imagine.
Coir, a most natural choice, is the main offering in the temple. It is believed this offering would bring relief to breathing problems. How and why coir became an offering is not known. There are five poojas here as like Mahakshetra with daily seeveli and navaka. From malayalam month Edavam 15 to Tulam 31, Lord is not taken outside considering the possibility of rains. It is said the custom of blowing the conch in the early morning should be on time. Unlike in other temples, the evening deeparadhana is done with open door (nada turannu). Panchagavya Abhisekham performed for 12 days every year in the month of Tulam (Utradam to Makayeeram) is considered auspicious. Yet another unique custom here is Pothottam (running the buffalo) which is on the first day of Tulam month. The yearly festival is of eight days and falls in the month of Makaram (Jan-Feb). Tantram is with Padinjaredath Bhattathiri. State Archaeology Dept. has considered this temple as protected monument. The temple is still managed by Paliam Trust.
"I look forward to come back again during monsoon. Meditate in the temple as the heavy rains thunder outside. At Thrikoor we can be sure the Lord will be very much with us when it rains. What more do we need than the feel of divine presence!" - Divs
As we descend we all feel our souls are ascending to the feet of Thrikoorappan. There in its bliss, our souls meditates - meditates forever.
Reference:
108 Sivakshetrangal (Malayalam) - Kunjikuttan Ilayath
Thrikoor Mahadeva Kshetram - Ithihyavum, Namangalum (Malayalam) - Bakthajana Sankhatana
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