Pazhoor Perum Thrikovil, Ernakulam Dist., Kerala

Pazhoor Perum Thrikovil - view from hanging bridge

"Paarivaloor Adattum nal Parippil Chathamangalam" – from 108 Shivalaya Nama Stothra

Paarivaloor - it is believed this place of bygone era has now transformed into the present day village of Pazhoor near Piravom in Ernakulam District of Kerala. As in all our customary journeys, we started early in the morning from Tripunithura to our destination of the day – Pazhoor Perum Thrikovil. For a change, this time the route is winding down along Mamala-Sasthamugal through dense rubber plantations. The incessant shrill of crickets is following us all along the way. The overnight rain and cloudy sky gives an ambience of a jungle even though there are several houses around. Yes, the whole feel reflects the essence of Pazhoor village which is rich in its legends and myths!

One such legend is about the family of astrologers renowned as Pazhoor Padipura which has its history dating back to 1200 AD. This family has its roots to Talakulath Govinda Bhattathiri, a famed astrologer known for incredible accuracy in his predictions. The mortal body of this Bhattathiri was entombed below the Padipura (Gate-house of Namboothiri Illams of Ancient Kerala) as per his wish. It is believed the presence of his soul is still there and the predictions made inside the Padipura by the family members will be precise. Pazhoor Padipura is still considered to be the last word in Astrology.

Pazhoor Padipura - Last word in Astrology

Once a Namboothiri came to the astrologer of Pazhoor Padipura to check his horoscope. Astrologer found the warning of immediate death in that horoscope. Instead of disclosing it, he advised the Namboothiri to come back the next day. Namboothiri unaware of his predicament went to Lord Siva temple across the lake and spent that night there. At that time the temple was in a dilapidated state. The Namboothiri while sleeping decided in his mind that the temple should be renovated. The next day Namboothiri went back to the astrologer. The astrologer was surprised to see the Namboothiri back who he thought would have died by then. On understanding the stay of the Namboothiri in Siva temple and his subsequent decision to renovate the temple the astrologer said: "You would have died yesterday as per your horoscope. But Lord Siva has blessed you as you have embarked on a great divine activity. There is no need to check your horoscope. You will live till the temple is renovated and further on till the Sathaabhishega is done!” - Lord Siva who blessed that Namboothiri is still blessing the devotees at Pazhoor Perum Thrikovil as Perum Thrikovilappan.

Pazhoor Padipura - The Astro-Ground ! 

It took hardly an hour for us to reach the temple from Tripunithura which is along the Arakunnam-Piravom Road. The temple situated alongside the Muvattupuzha River is considered to be dating back to the 12th century. The antique feel is visible all over the temple and its construction is similar to that of Vaikkom Mahadeva Temple. Though the temple is much smaller in size, the richness of mural paintings, intricate wooden and stone carvings are breathtaking. The flag mast (kodimaram) and its related structures are the only things which we felt are relatively new. The famed craftsman Raman Perumthachan is believed to have done many of the carvings in this temple. As we enter the Valiyabalikalpura, we see a wooden garuda on the top right with a broken wing. The myth says, while the Thachan was painting the eyes of garuda, it came alive due to the perfect craftsmanship and tried to fly away. Thachan promptly cut-off its wing and it still remains in that state even today. The roof of Balikalpura has intricate wooden carvings. We are told it depicts the story of Ramayana.

The sanctum is vatta-sreekovil (round in shape), thatched with copper plates, with mural paintings, carved wooden beams and intricate stone designs around. Even though this is a protected monument of Department of Archaeology, the art forms are unfortunately in a highly neglected state. The paintings have almost faded away. The wooden carvings have lost many of its features. Still the richness of these art forms leaves us in a state of awe. One specific wooden carving to be noted is that of Sage Astavakra on the left side of the sanctum. It is said to be anatomically perfect in its measures which points out to the possibility of Perumthachan being the person behind it.

Lord Siva here is facing East. It is said that this Siva Linga, consecrated by Lord Parasurama, was originally made by Parvathi Devi out of sand and weeds from the river. Because of this reason, the daily dhara (water bath) of the Lord is done using the conch. The deity is in the sankalpa as Lord doing penance after Sati viyoga (Similar form as in Sringapuram Siva Temple). The dwarapalakas of the sanctum are also noteworthy with their grand dimensions. Lord Ganapathi is consecrated on the left side of sanctum. There are 5 daily poojas and 3 seevelis in this temple. Festival is in the Malayalam month of Kumbha.

Pazhoor Perum Thrikovil - view across the river

In the outer prakara (compound), there are deities of Lord Krishna, Sastha and Nagas. There is an old jack fruit tree near the Nagas. We are greeted with one more fable about this tree. One day the golden pot which is used to bring water for the Lord slipped down into the river. The person also went in search of it and reached the Patala world. There he found the demons eating jack fruit. He took one seed from it and planted it in the temple. It is said the jack fruit of this tree tastes entirely unique!

Jackfruit of Demon World!

The legends follow us even on our way back. Close to Pazhoor, at a place called Veliyanad is the Melpazhur Mana, the home of holy mother (Aryamba) of Sri Adi Sankaracharya. It is believed that this is the place where Adi Sankaracharya was born. The Mana is very well maintained with all its serenity by Chinmaya International Foundation. Swami Chinmayananda has aptly renamed it as Adi Sankara Nilayam.