Chakkamkulangara Siva Temple, Thripunithura, Ernakulam Dist., Kerala

We are in a pleasant paradox. Imagine this – you walk along unknown streets, lose track of the direction and whichever way you go end up in the midst of palaces. The people you see on the streets happen to be a prince or princess, connoisseurs of music or ascetic advaitins! – a fairy tale feeling - isn't it?

Palace Streets

Though well past the era of Rajas and Maharajas and almost protruding out of postmodernism, here, in these streets, we feel this fairy tale experience and find ourselves trapped among palaces - Kalikotta Palace, Eeswaravilasam Palace, Edoop Palace, Raj Bhavan Palace, Lakshmi Thoppu Palace and may be as the royal names got exhausted there are Palace 12, Palace 13, Palace 14 etc.! 

Inimitable Palaces of Tripunithura

Yes, We are at Tripunithura, the "Palace Town" of Kerala treading through its streets surrounding the Poornathreyesa Temple. 

"If you are to fall of the sky to this town, the chances are that you will land up inside a palace or on a Vidwan’s head! I think it is only at Tripunithura you may find so many palaces and so many classic people together. But due to their inherent simplicity and humble life style, chances are you may never identify the regal stature of people around." - feels Divs

Many of these Palaces have now declined into mere concrete buildings with just a "Palace" tag but there are a few which still breathe the richness of our yester era. With great admiration of our past all three of us feel really concerned about the future of these architectural wonders.

"If you look at Europe or America, they conserve whatever history they have with great care. Here we have so much of History but hardly any interest or money to preserve it. Already several palaces are down and dusted. Another example is the old campus of Radha Lakshmi Vilasam (RLV) Music College which was demolished ruthlessly. What a loss of heritage campus which breathed music! Now go and look at the new campus - Doesn't it look like a violin without strings? Government should take up initiatives to protect our lively heritage rather than trying to construct new lifeless structures." - says Ram.

Poornathreyesa Temple – Dec,2009 - The peepal tree in this picture is not present now.

Being home of great connoisseurs of Music and Art, with Sanskrit College, Ayurveda College and Music College around Tripunithura is as much an 'Art Town' as a 'Palace Town'. "In fact Tripunithura is more or less the true cultural capital of Kerala." - feels Abhi. “But with Ernakulam and Kakkanad developing into an IT hub, the brunt of corrosive development is felt here as well – the materialistic pursuits are popping up everywhere like the flats and villas - once a slow sedate town is now running frantically to nowhere – the traditional canvas is being repainted with modern shades.”

The main junction of the town has the statue of erstwhile Cochin Maharaja Rama Varma which was built in 1933. From here less than half kilometer towards North is the Chakkamkulangara Siva Temple which is referred in various sources as one among the 108 Siva Temples.

Chakkamkulangara Temple – Temple Pond – View from West

At Chakkamkulangara Lord Siva is worshipped as "Swayamvara Murthy" though originally it was in the form of "Mrithunjaya". The Lord here is facing West while Goddess Parvathi is facing East. It is said that this temple was established by the Cochin Royal Family. Now the temple is under Cochin Devaswam Board. Lord Vinayaka, Dharamasastha and Navagrahas are also worshipped in the temple compound. It is in the temple pond near the Eastern entrance the Aarattu of Lord Poornathrayeesa is conducted. During Deeparadhana, it is believed that Lord Poornathrayeesa visits this temple and sits in the Namaskara Mandapa.

Chakkamkulangara Temple – Top View

In the stotra of 108 siva temples, Chakkamkulangara is referred as "Atampally" (AtampaLyErampaLikkATu cErAnellAru mAniyUr). Neither could we find any references to relate this to current place name nor are there any details available on the exact origin of this temple. The Lord here is addressed as "Siva Paatta" (Grandfather Siva) - This is an indication that this temple would have existed here from a very long time. Contrary to this, a book on the history of Poornathreyesa Temple mentions this temple as relatively new. The temple structure as such is also new. Still, no one could ignore the divinity of this temple town. So Parasurama, no doubt, would have definitely considered this as one for his 108 Sivalayas.

After visiting this majestic town we had only one prayer to all the Gods of this town: "May the richness of mind, the sense of culture, the humbleness in deeds which reflects in the royal people of this town may prevail forever and forever."