Thrissilery Siva Temple, Wayanad Dist., Kerala

Thrissilery Siva Temple

If we would like to be at a place on earth as imagined by God – then we should travel to the southern tip of Deccan Plateau, towards the moist valleys of Sahyadri, climbing the Great escarpment, into the dense forests of Mayakshetra! It is this land of pristine mountains which captivated Lord Brahma. It is this land where flows the holy river blessed by Lord Vishnu. It is this land where Lord Shiva incarnated himself to dwell in the silence of wilderness. Mayakshetra later became Mayanad which then flipped into present Wayanad!

This blessed land has this blissful place known as Thirunelli famous for the Perumal (Lord Vishnu) temple. The Papanashini stream close to it is believed to be sanctified by the Lord to wash away our sins. Our legends tell us the story of Lord Parasurama who visited Thirunelli to perform the last rites of his father Sage Jamadagni (who is one of the Saptharishi’s - seven great sages) and wash away his own sin of killing the Kshathriyas.

However, the lesser known legend is about an equally important temple close to Thirunelli  -  Lord Siva Temple at Thrissilery. Thrissilery is almost 41 km from Mananthavady enroute to Thirunelli, a 4 km drive from Kattikulam. However, it is not easy to discover this temple and it needs directions from the localities to reach there.

Tea gardens of Wayanad - The British brought the cash crops in Wayanad

As for one who has left everything to destiny’s decisive decisions, the blessing came in the name of Vishnu at the best possible time in the best possible form. Vishnu, my colleague friend, and his parents (Mr. and Mrs. Sasidharan) were there to guide me to the Lord of Thrissilery.  I still don’t know how I would have reached the divine destination in such a relaxed manner without their generous guidance.

On the way to Thrissilery - Thanks to Vishnu, Mr and Mrs. Sasidharan, the journey to the divine was as absorbing as it could be!

The early morning drive to Thrissilery was mystical! The benevolent mountains, The Western Ghats seemed to bless us unconditionally. Everything around, may it be the sprawling tea gardens, the sweeping paddy fields, the thick pepper vines or the dense wild inside all reflected the unperceived richness of this magical land! As usual, my thoughts were immediately cut off from the present and were travelling at a lightning speed into those times of vanished centuries.

The surroundings became a big canvas. There is wild wilderness, animals unseen, birds unknown, giant snakes, mammoth trees with their hulking shadows and among all few earthy humans engraving the damp rocks.  Then the Kutumbiyas (500 AD), the Kadambas (1000-1100 AD), the Hoysalas (1100 AD), the Vijayanagara and Mysore Sultans all marched past through those dense jungles which we could only imagine in our own myriad ways. Again came alive the story of Veera Kerala Varma Pazhassi Raja, whose soul would be still resting somewhere in the darkness of this drenched wilderness.

A burst of Western gust blew away the canvas from my thoughts, though it remained sketched in my mind. I returned back to the time’s inevitable moment. Vishnu and father are checking with the local people on the directions to take. Soon with the help of those directions, we reached Thrissilery in the early morning hours itself.

At the temple, we were received at the office and taken inside with guided accompaniment of Sri. Krishnan. “This is the last of the 108 Siva Temples consecrated by Lord Parasurama and the only one in Wayanad District. This is the located at the highest point around,” says Krishnan as we walk around.

Jaladurga Temple

Thrissilery temple has a sub-temple dedicated to Goddess Jaladurga, considered as one of the 108 Durgalayas, again consecrated by Lord Parasurama himself. “The waterbody around Jaladurga is believed to be connected to the Papanashini stream at Thirunelli, which has an intrinsic connect with Thrissilery. You know, there is a dense forest route of 8 kms which was frequented in old times by pilgrims to reach Thirunelli from here. Nowadays it is not being used and would need permission from Forest Dept. to enter through there.”

I wondered how someone could find a route through the dense woods at a time when there were no satellite images or google maps to direct humans!

Next to Jaladurga is the temple of Lord Ganesha, with an ancient well close by. We find another Ganesha deity inside the well as well. “Lord Ganesha deity inside the well is considered to be very old one, and it is believed to be guarding the ancient treasures somewhere inside the well.” This could be of the times of Pazhassi or even before, I thought. “Lord Siva at Thrissilery was the prime deity of Pazhassi Raja. The key decisions during his tumultuous rule were taken in the presence of the Lord here” – continues Krishnan, as we listen in fascinated attention feeling the vibes of those yester years around.

Nandi at Thrissilery

The chuttambalam and the wall is newly constructed which lacks the traditional tone and falls out to the ambience of the temple and the surroundings. “Yes. Earlier there was no chuttambalam and these wall structures. Inside there were stone pavements on one side and nothing else. It is not long back these were constructed.” - the unfortunate ways of human development!

Inside the temple, we get back to the divine feel. Lord Shiva is facing West. Opposite to the main sanctum, we find a chamber for Sati Devi and Lord Ganapathi. “There are three Ganapathi deities in this temple which is not very common in most of the temples.” There is a rock like structure close to the Oovu. “This is considered as part of Swayambhoo Lord. Thrissilery is considered as head of the Lord who extends to Thirunelli, which is considered to be the Lord’s feet. Pilgrims should first pray at Thrissilery by offering mainly the ghee lamps (neyvilakku) before proceeding to Thirunelli. That is when the ritual is considered complete.” – says Krishnan.

The Benevolent Mountains!

Again, outside, on the upper side of the temple, we find the sub-shrine of Jadaadhaari Sastha, considered unique and very old. “The archeology team who visited this temple, states this to be more than 1000 years old. The locals however consider this temple to be more than 5000 years old.”

We spent some more time around talking, thinking and soaking in the blessings of the Lord of Thrissileri, the benevolent one! Lord Parasurama could not have found a better place for the last among the 108 Siva temples – here the loudest of noise calmly dissolves in the silence of the woods. As we started back, the rains came down - silently. I felt a dense meditative silence spreading all over. I felt being absorbed in the silence around, in the silence within and in the divine silence of this magical land of Mayakshetra!

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