Vazhappally Siva Temple, Kottayam Dist., Kerala

We are just into the first week of Edvapaathi – the dramatic season of rains which brings life even in the dullest of dull stones! Yes, these rains have a special place in the hearts of all in this little state of Kerala and we keep a private pride in welcoming the rain god with all its grandeur into the Indian subcontinent! And what an entry it is happening this year (2018). It has been a classic celebration of rains with every leaf, stone and speck of sand drenched in the divine drops from heaven.

It is listening to the overnight rain we woke up and watching the thick clouded sky we started our first rain journey of the season - to Vazhappally. To ease the length of travel, from Tripunithura to Chaganannassery, this time we opted for a cab. All through our way the morning rains pounded us incessantly. The roads are almost deserted. There are a few vehicles plying on the highway and a very few souls who are scampered in tea stalls. At Chaganannassery, we asked for the directions to Madhumoola. After taking few turns, through the rain fogged front glass we saw the drenched reflection of our destination - Vazhappally Siva Temple.

As soon as we reached the temple, the rains stopped for a while as if to allow us inside. Through the modest east gopuram we entered. Inside, under the clouded sky, in the soaked surroundings, we had the first grand view of Vazhappally Siva Temple – and what a feel it was! - "Vazhappally Siva Temple simply knocked us with its magnificence. Expecting nothing and then finding centuries old temple gave us a feeling of finding an archaeological wonder!" - feels Divs

As we enter the chuttambalam, we see the sub-shrine of Ganapathi on the right. At Vazhappally, Lord Ganapathi has equal significance as that of Lord Siva. There is a separate naalambalam and dwaja for Lord Ganapathi. The sanctum of Ganapthi has wooden structure with perforations, not commonly seen in other temples. The idol is small, facing south and in the ambience of rains, clouds, oil lamps and morning vibes we felt our prayers very blissful. Ganapathy Appam (Ottayappam) is the famous offering to Lord Ganapathi here and this offering is believed to remove all obstacles. It is also believed, this offering can be done any time of the day and Lord Ganapathy will not feel overfilled with the Ottayappam offering at all. However now it has to be booked days before to get the offering done!

The rains started pouring down again. At the main shrine of Lord Siva, Seeveli started with pradakshina in the rains. We waited for the Seeveli to complete, which itself was fascinating to watch in the backdrop of rains and drum beats, and then entered naalambalam along with the procession. 

Ancient looking  granite altar, Balikallu is in the open at the entrance to the naalambalam. There is also a bell on the left of the entrance which is fixed on a concrete structure. The entry to the naalambalam is two storied structure with a peculiar grillwork kind of design in the top floor. The corridor which takes us to the inner prakara is grand with sculptures and carvings on the roof and sides. Inside of the naalambalam is completely paved in granite and has a large namaskaramandapa with stunning stone works on the pillars and wood work on the roof. To our relief we found all of those are really well maintained. There is an antique well on the right side in the naalambalam. The sanctum, again, is truly exceptional. It is circular, vattasreekovil, and is completely studded with intricate wood carvings. It needs a close view to really appreciate the depth of the work it has. There are giant dwarapalakas at the entrance to the sreekovil. Another feature found is a unique kind of wooden locking system at the entrance to the sreekovil, which could be noticed only on keen observation. All the architectural works of this temple are considered to be of the period between 1600-1700 AD. 

Lord Siva at Vazhappally is facing east and when we visited, we could find the idol with ornamentation. On the west Goddess Parvathi is consecrated. The chuttambalam has sub-shrines for Sastha, Naga and Rakshas while in the naalambalam there are Parasurama (Sankalpa) and Dakshinamoorthy. There are five poojas to Lord Siva and three poojas to Lord Ganapthi here. The annual festival is of ten days and is in the malayalam month of Meenam (March-April). Aaraatt is on the day of Tiruvathira which is done together for Lord Siva and Ganapathi.

The legend of this temple goes as back to the times of Later Cheras (800-1200 AD). The Vazhappally Plates (Vazhappally Shasanam/Cheppedu), the copper plate inscriptions of the year 830 AD, throws light to the connection of Chera King Kulasekhara Perumal Rajasekhara Varman to this place and temple. It is believed Rajasekhara Varman Perumal was a staunch devotee of Lord Siva and is considered as a saint. How he could have traveled all from Thiruvanchikulam in those days? How he would have ruled it from so far Chera capital? As always, History yet again answers us with answer-less questions. A safe assumption here could be that the temple was managed by the ten Brahmin families known as pathillathe pottimaar under the overall jurisdiction of the Chera King. 

In the book "108 Sivakshetrangal" Kunjikuttan Ilayath says in those days, the temple had half-lakh para of paddy income among several others. An excellent study on the History of Changannassery by Sri. Ramu Kaviyoor notes it is from one of the pathillathe pottimaar families (Thalavana Illam) the Vazhappally Plates were found. Since the decline of Cheras, this place went under several rulers, Thekkumkoor and Travancore Kings being prominent, witnessed several brutal battles, betrayals, murders, extermination and what not. Yet, in all these situations, with God's will and prayers of devotees, the temple remained protected from destruction. And now the temple is peacefully managed by the Travancore Devaswam Board. 

We visited few historical locations of Changannassery - the Anchuvilakku and the Anandasramam, inaugurated by Gandhiji and where Sree Narayana Guru stayed. Our return was again accompanied by torrential rains over the Kuttanad fields and flurry of thoughts - What all our little land has witnessed in the last few centuries? How much it has suffered due to the greed for power? And where have those yester-year warriors, landlords, heroes and anti-heroes gone? Once again the history reminds us, all you own, all you capture, all you conquer will vanish sooner or later in thin air. What will remain is just one question - In your available time on earth, how many steps you took towards the feet of the Lord? In fact, nothing else matters in this mundane world. May the true wisdom prevail. May all our journeys, all our destinations be to the feet of Lord alone!

References :

1. 108 Sivakshetrangal (Malayalam), Kunjikuttan Ilayath

2. http://ramukaviyoor.blogspot.com/