Kunnath Thali Siva Temple, Chendamangalam, Ernakulam Dist., Kerala

Kunnath Thali Siva Temple

The ride is slow. In fact very slow. In the mid-twenties to be precise. Rich morning breeze, calm surroundings, astonishing smooth road has made this a perfect morning ride which we wish not to end. But in 15 minutes from Kodungallur we are at Chendamangalam - a quasi-village in the N.Parur Taluk of Ernakulam District. With Periyar and Chalakudy rivers in the East, a small hillock and quiet surroundings this place brings us the texture of pre-urbanised Kerala.

Possibly derived from the name Chendrathrikkovu, Chendamangalam is known to many  for its handloom. However the latent history and the culture it beholds has much greater significance than we could imagine. In fact, it is the grand residence of Paliath Achans which greets us as we enter this little village. The hereditary Prime Ministers to the former Maharaja of Kochi during the 16th and 17th century, the Paliath Achans were next only to the Maharaja in terms of power and wealth. The residence known as the Paliam Kovilakam was rebuilt by the Dutch in 1663 and is now being renovated as part of the Muziris Heritage Project. We went inside the big wooden door but the main building is closed.  “It is not open to public now. The Kovilakam is planned to be converted to a museum which is yet to be launched,” said a local person whom we met there.

Adjacent to the Kovilakam is the Paliam Nalukettu, a two-storeyed building built in 1786 with its authentic classic looks. Further towards the center of the village is the Puthiyathrikovu Siva Temple built by the Paliath Achans and currently managed by the Paliam Trust. We came to know that many of the mansions in this area are of 40 to 200 years old. Several of them are in ruins due to lack of maintenance.

Disintegrating Past

"True – this place is as fascinating as our journey. Over the years, Kodungallur has transformed into a crowded town. But Chendamangalam has managed to maintain its rural charm. Though I used to visit this place during my school days, it is only now I came to know about the Paliam legacy – courtesy Muziris Heritage Project. We hope next time we come here, we will have the Museum also ready," says Divs

Abhi is more rational in his observations - “It is heartening to know about the religious tolerance of the Paliath Achans because of which four faiths coexist here peacefully. Even while glorifying this, we can't ignore the fact that the caste system was deeply prevalent here as indicated by the Paliam Satyagraha."

Ram has his own ideas about Chendamangalam - “This is perfect place for cycling (biking) from either N.Paur or Kodungallur. Call your friends, take the bicycles and cycle down before the dawn breaks or in the evening. After roaming around you can get back in 2-3 hours. Good for leisure and best for your health!”

From Chendamangalam we took the road to Kottayam Kovilakam – an unsung village on the banks of river Periyar. A 4 km snail-paced drive watching the surroundings and we are at the Kunnath (Kunnathoor) Thali Siva Temple, one of the 108 Siva Temples of Pracheena Kerala.

A big peepal tree on the road side with Ganesha idol underneath welcomes us. The temple is located in the center of a large compound with around 7 sub-shrines which has Brahma, Vishnu, Dakshinamoorthy, Aghoramoorthy and Bringiradi. The idol of Brahma, a bust with four faces, has its sanctum in semi-elliptical form. The main sanctum of the temple which houses the presiding deity Lord Siva in linga form, faces East. The idol of Sastha with the consorts Poorna and Pushkala, Kodungallur Bhagavathi and Sapthamathrukkal consecrated in the inner prakara states the antiquity of the temple.

Sub-shrines at Kunnath Thali Siva Temple

The main shrine and its surroundings however has its old charm punctured by crude constructions – the iron grill around the Balikkalpura, the metallic roofing inside, partial and sub-standard paintings on the wall, cemented floors, the water-well covered with endemic plants all have virtually rubbed out its true feel. The wooden pillars of the sanctum are broken in many places and infected by termites.

“Lack of funds to renovate and maintain the temple and probably the ignorance of the authorities could be the reason for these anomalies. But I think with a little bit of imagination and a sincere regard to our history many of these can be brought back to its pristine form,” feels Ram

In spite of these discomforting factors the entire surroundings of this temple is deeply peaceful which itself is a big blessing to the people of this village. It is this laid-back feel which made us move further into this village visiting the Jewish synagogue (built in 1614 AD), the ruins of fort with Sreekrishna Temple (Govindapuram), ruins of Vypeenkotta Seminary (built in 16th cent. by Portuguese) and the ferry service. The Muziris heritage project with the renovation of Paliam Palace, Synagogue and the construction of a Tourist House has given a big boost to heritage tourism in this area.

Kottayil Kovilakam Ferry Service

The monsoon rains blessed us at the ferry and we merrily enjoyed it for an hour. We returned but not before savouring the delicious dosa prepared in fire-wood from a roadside tea shop. 

Crisp Dosa served with white chutney and a cup of steaming tea - just mind-blowing

Yes - our ride is now leading us back to chaos – But then our souls are now already soaked with the rich impressions of this “Paliam Land”.

References : https://www.keralatourism.org/muziris/